03 Jun 23, 02:30 am

Recent Posts

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Maintenance and Servicing / Re: Extremely Low Front Brake Pressure
« Last post by Radek on Jun 01, 2023, 01.39 pm »
 :0461: Sounds like a great method, I’ll make sure to remember that for when I move up in CC’s again, not that the great little Zuma is going anywhere :001:

Thanks for the comment!
Maintenance and Servicing / Re: Extremely Low Front Brake Pressure
« Last post by Resident Weevil on Jun 01, 2023, 01.28 pm »
Hi chap and welcome, glad you got sorted. Yes, leave the post up if you would as it adds to the archive and may help others in the future.
I was going to reply that it had to be a stubborn air bubble or two but you beat me to it!
One good method I've used to get the last of the air out the top of the line ( After performing the main bleeding procedure ) is to pull back the lever as far as it will go, cable tie it in position and then leave it overnight.
Then next day remove the master cylinder lid, cut the tie and slowly release the lever. Then operate the lever but don't grab a huge handful, just give it a series of little 'tweaks' and hopefully you will be rewarded with the sight of a procession of tiny air bubbles fizzing up into the master cylinder. When the bubbles stop coming top up the fluid if necessary, screw the lid back on and hopefully things will have improved.
I've used this method when replacing multi line twin disc systems and it's worked really well for me.
Enjoy the bike and ride safe!
Maintenance and Servicing / Re: Extremely Low Front Brake Pressure
« Last post by Radek on Jun 01, 2023, 12.57 pm »
Problem solved! :020:

After trying a few more things I decided to bleed the brakes one last time, this time from the top down though, as before I had bled them with a syringe from the bottom.

To my relief after 10 minutes a few minuscule air bubbles came out and after some more pumping the brake is back to normal!

I think the culprit was a small air bubble in or around the master reservoir which didn’t come out when bleeding the brakes with the syringe.

Should I remove the original post since the problem is solved or leave it up?
Maintenance and Servicing / Extremely Low Front Brake Pressure
« Last post by Radek on Jun 01, 2023, 11.42 am »
Hi guys, got a teeny tiny problem here. :164:

I am just after replacing the whole front brake calliper because the old one had a chip in it and was leaking fluid and the seal was getting pushed out. :012:

Anyways, I replaced the old one with another used one which is not damaged (as far as I can tell), I cleaned as much as I could without taking out the seals etc, I bled the brakes, refilled the master cylinder, put everything back on (not in that order).

When I press the brake lever i get the usual no feedback as the cylinders (pistons?) move up to the brake pads, which is fine, the problem however is that once they reach the pads and I apply the brake there is still no pressure until the very, very last bit of brake pull, and even then it's not enough to stop me from pushing the bike around. :006:

Anyone have any idea as to what is going on?

Appreciate any responses,
~Cheers, Radek.
New Members / Greetings from Ireland
« Last post by Radek on Jun 01, 2023, 11.27 am »
Hi all, got my 2015 Inazuma 2 months back and been lurking ever since, decided to join in the fun proper.
I look forward to discussing with yous.
~Cheers, Radek.
Hello! Long time no see :)

*Originally Posted by Opel [+]
The problem has specific symptoms.

The bike will crank on the starter button but will fail to fire. During cranking the FI light will illuminate. Switching ignition off and on again (repeat as required!), the bike should start.

After locating the “dealer plug”, and inserting the bent paper clip link, the error code C42 was displayed. Please note that codes only appear during the fault condition and you cannot view historic codes via this method. I believe that the Suzuki computer software is required for that.

My inazuma once in 6 months? does the same. I haven't checked the error code but I guess it's the same problem.
Switching the ignition on/off for 5 to 10 times eliminates the problem and then everything works fine.
As I said, its happening rare, but I don't for how long the switch on/off will be a solution.

Last month I had the same symptom twice in a day, so I ordered a new set of locks (ignition, tank, seat) for 40-45€ from aliexpress.

Basically, there's a 100 Ohm resistor that is supplied with 12 volts when you turn on the ignition and then the resultant dropped voltage is fed directly into the ECU, thus allowing the correct condition for the bike to fire.

I checked mine and yeap, it was 1kΩ resistor.
Disassembly the ignition lock revealed a 1/4 metal resistor 1kΩ with 1% tolerance. Replaced with another one of 100Ω and now it's ready for installation.

I don't know when I will do the replace, as now the bike works ok but it's ready for installation :)

Thanks everybody for the information (about the resistance of the resistor!).

Keep up inazuming :) :) :)
Any luck yet bud?
Thanks for the response... Truly unsure of what it could be then.  The throttle cable is working correctly so who knows
I'm not a mechanic.

For a bike to run it needs the right proportion of fuel and air. Since it runs only with starter fluid, that implies that it's too lean. You've done everything to make sure the fuel supply is correct, so it sounds to me like you're getting too much air. I admit it sounds unlikely and I don't know what might've failed.
Maintenance and Servicing / Bike will not start. PLEASE READ ENTIRE POST
« Last post by Craigyas on May 11, 2023, 05.07 pm »

So I am seeking guidance in the repair of my gw250. 

The bike was left to sit for a year in which time the gas went bad, and the bike no longer starts.

I have replaced the fuel pump and its small filter, cleaned the tank, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the fuel injectors, sea foamed the oil, cylinders, and gas. 

The bike will only run when I spray starter fluid into the air intake, and as soon as the starter fluid runs out it dies.

There is fuel getting to the fuel rail ( which has also been cleaned) which means the new injectors have fuel to them.

What are the next steps to diagnose this problem?

Thank you.
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