Hi chap and welcome, glad you got sorted. Yes, leave the post up if you would as it adds to the archive and may help others in the future.
I was going to reply that it had to be a stubborn air bubble or two but you beat me to it!
One good method I've used to get the last of the air out the top of the line ( After performing the main bleeding procedure ) is to pull back the lever as far as it will go, cable tie it in position and then leave it overnight.
Then next day remove the master cylinder lid, cut the tie and slowly release the lever. Then operate the lever but don't grab a huge handful, just give it a series of little 'tweaks' and hopefully you will be rewarded with the sight of a procession of tiny air bubbles fizzing up into the master cylinder. When the bubbles stop coming top up the fluid if necessary, screw the lid back on and hopefully things will have improved.
I've used this method when replacing multi line twin disc systems and it's worked really well for me.
Enjoy the bike and ride safe!

Hi guys, got a teeny tiny problem here.

I am just after replacing the whole front brake calliper because the old one had a chip in it and was leaking fluid and the seal was getting pushed out.

Anyways, I replaced the old one with another used one which is not damaged (as far as I can tell), I cleaned as much as I could without taking out the seals etc, I bled the brakes, refilled the master cylinder, put everything back on (not in that order).

When I press the brake lever i get the usual no feedback as the cylinders (pistons?) move up to the brake pads, which is fine, the problem however is that once they reach the pads and I apply the brake there is still no pressure until the very, very last bit of brake pull, and even then it's not enough to stop me from pushing the bike around.

Anyone have any idea as to what is going on?

Appreciate any responses,
~Cheers, Radek.

Hello! Long time no see :)



My inazuma once in 6 months? does the same. I haven't checked the error code but I guess it's the same problem.
Switching the ignition on/off for 5 to 10 times eliminates the problem and then everything works fine.
As I said, its happening rare, but I don't for how long the switch on/off will be a solution.

Last month I had the same symptom twice in a day, so I ordered a new set of locks (ignition, tank, seat) for 40-45€ from aliexpress.


I checked mine and yeap, it was 1kΩ resistor.
Disassembly the ignition lock revealed a 1/4 metal resistor 1kΩ with 1% tolerance. Replaced with another one of 100Ω and now it's ready for installation.

I don't know when I will do the replace, as now the bike works ok but it's ready for installation :)

Thanks everybody for the information (about the resistance of the resistor!).

Keep up inazuming :) :) :)

Thanks for the response... Truly unsure of what it could be then.  The throttle cable is working correctly so who knows

Hi!

So I am seeking guidance in the repair of my gw250. 

The bike was left to sit for a year in which time the gas went bad, and the bike no longer starts.

I have replaced the fuel pump and its small filter, cleaned the tank, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the fuel injectors, sea foamed the oil, cylinders, and gas. 

The bike will only run when I spray starter fluid into the air intake, and as soon as the starter fluid runs out it dies.

There is fuel getting to the fuel rail ( which has also been cleaned) which means the new injectors have fuel to them.


What are the next steps to diagnose this problem?

Thank you.